Breaking the Dirtbag Cycle

When it comes to the world of climbing, the term "dirtbag" gets thrown around a lot.  It used to refer to a climber, that sans job, does everything within his power to get by without tapping into his meager savings and continue climbing.  The stories of dirtbags sound kinda like a hobo's existence; dumpster diving for food, collecting bottles for deposits, waking up early to move before rangers find you sleeping illegally. The stories go on and on.  They are kinda fun and have a sort of romantic, spirit of adventure quality to them.  The problem is that idea of being a dirtbag has permeated into the climbing culture.  Folks that are weekend warriors with good jobs seem to have "bought" into the idea of  being a dirtbag.  It has moved away from the idea of scrimping by on meager finances to continue climbing to just flat out being cheap.  One example of this was during the open years of Torrent Falls in the Red, Rockman watched many gainfully employed climbers walk pass the $2 donation can and never drop in a dime.  This becomes the problem with the dirtbag mentality.   Torrent Falls is no longer open to the public.  Is it because folks didn't fork over a couple of bucks on each  visit? Not entirely, but pulling a wad of cash out each weekend would have payed for the port-o-potty.  The examples like this are too many and too frequent to list, but if you don't believe Rockman, just hang out at the front counter of your local climbing gym and listen as people try to talk their way in without paying, or go local gear shop where climbers ask to price match a Spanish website. Listen to enough of these conversations and you will start to understand.

It occurs to Rockman that the climbing industry is really to blame for perpetuating the Dirtbag Cycle.  Over the years climbing equipment has become safer, more functional and less expensive.  Let Rockman illustrate.  In 1990 the average cost of rock shoes was $150. The average cost of rock shoes today is $110.  In twenty years have shoes gotten better or worse?  What helps bring this price down?  Cheap shoes have made all companies cut costs to stay competitive.  A Black Diamond Bod harness was one of the least expensive harnesses when Rockman started climbing. It was $50. Now the same harness is still $50 and a host of other harnesses are more comfortable and less than $50.  All of this gear safe, useful, light, comfortable and inexpensive.  This is good right?  Inexpensive gear allows everyone to have shoes and harnesses and ropes and biners, but unfortunately the profit margins are smaller making it harder on the industry.  As the costs of these items go down further, climbers begin to expect better and better deals, fueling their cheapness.   

 

What is the big deal with being cheap?  The big deal is this cheapness affects Red River Gorge Climbing Coalition, land owners, other climbing advocacy groups, local climbing shops, climbing gyms and other buisnesses that support the climbing community. Rockman can't tell you how many times he has heard a dirtbag climber justify not paying his 2 bucks for camping at Miguel's because he bought a pizza.  Now Miguel's has a tag system for tents to make sure you pay $2.  Really, 2 bucks. You can't pay 2 bucks? Where in the world can you camp ,that has plumbing, for $2.  That is just sad and if you can't pay for camping are you going to give $20 a month to your local climbers coalition, probably not.

So how do we break this cycle? Easy.  The same way Rockman changes his children's behavior.  No, not by yelling-Consequences.  What if the consequence of buying the cheapest gear meant you might get hurt?  Would you buy the more expensive draw set if it was stronger?  Cheap gear isn't really that cheaply made, but what if it was?   What if cheap gear wasn't as strong or reliable?  Would you spend more?  If  faced with the choice of decking out or spending more money, more money would win out, wouldn't it?   Of course this won't happen.  It is hard to build a business around substandard gear.  Having these consequences might be the cure for dirtbagedness but for now the only consequence of being a dirtbag is more subtle: closed climbing areas and tags for your tent.  There still are consequences even if it takes 15 years to realize them.  Help Rockman break the dirtbag cycle by supporting your local climbing coalition, paying for camping, buying from your local climbing shop (and not asking for a deal) and buying quality-made climbing gear instead of the cheapest thing that may do the trick.

In The Spirit Of Adventure,

Rockman